Backstrap Weaving

When Remigio and his mother Bascillia are ready to weave, they use a backstrap loom, a series of shaped sticks and ties on which a continuous warp and string heddles are used to produce a cloth with four finished edges. Weavers in the Cusco area attach the loom to a belt they wear, and tie the other end to an immovable object. They also use a four-staked loom. Backstrap weaving using a variety of techniques and designs can produce detailed and complex patterned cloth.

Most ancient fabrics in Central and South America were woven on a simple backstrap loom, of a type still in use throughout these areas. Other looms used in Peru are the vertical frame loom, and the horizontal loom fixed to the ground with stakes.
The width of the fabric woven on the backstrap loom does not exceed the distance across which the weaver could pass a shuttle from hand to hand. Two pieces of this uncut width with four selvedges could be sewn together to produce a larger cloth. Beginning at one end of the loom, the fabric is woven a short distance, then the loom is turned and the weaving started at the other end. As the warp was filled, the shed rod and heddles became ineffective, and the final weft insertion had to be done with a needle.

Spinning & Dyeing

Cold morning here in Mucmoca, which means "blooming flower" in the Quechua language. Once the sun appears over the mountains I move outside to receive its rays of warmth. Sitting outside sipping more mate de coca and watching these crazy quacking ducks that most likely will be consumed in the next few months. I am constantly amazed at the similarities I find between the Peruvians living up in the Andes and the Mongolians. They share some of the same food, cooking methods, and appearances.

This morning was my first day to learn the weaving process, which is quite involved. The weaving preparation process includes the gathering of wool, and its spinning, plying and dyeing. Many techniques and designs that exist today have survived two thousand years of being handed down from older to younger weavers. The people of the Andes have always utilized materials from their environment in order to survive in their harsh mountainous landscape. For thousands of years, clothing for warmth and protection has been made from animal fibres. Before the conquering Spanish arrived, highland peoples herded llamas and alpacas, using their wool for weaving cloth, braiding ropes, and other needs. Today these practices continue in some areas. Sheep, which were introduced to the highlands by the Spanish in the 1500s, are also used for making cloth as well as knitting.

Often I see people of the Andean highlands walking along footpaths and roadways whirling their puchkas (drop spindles) before them as they spin the wools, cottons and alpaca that become some of the most vibrant and complex weaving. Spinning is one of several stages in the preparation of wool for weaving or knitting.

Dyeing of the wool is done after the first spinning. The spun wool is placed a a pot of dye and then laid out ot dry before being spun a second time. All colors come from the surrounding enviornment. There does seem to be a movenment to use more natural dyes and avoid the synthetics. The color red is obtained from the female cochineal insect Dactylopius coccus, which lives on the nopal cactus. Yellow comes from lichen and taro trees of coastal valleys in Peru. Black is obtained from logwood and green comes from vaious plants. Blue is more difficult to find they use flor de tarhui and also turquoise and lapis azul, Indigo is also used in Peru.

Some info on COCHINEAL (Dactylopius coccus):
A brilliant red dye is produced from cochineal insects, which feed on the prickly pear cactus (Opuntia) - in particular, the species called nopal. The insects manufacture a rich maroon pigment and they store this pigment in body fluids and tissues. The dye properties of cochineal were discovered by ancient indigenous groups who would dry the female insects in the sun, and then grind the bodies to produce a powder. Depending on the mordant used, dyers could achieve not only beautiful crimsons and pinks, but also near-black and even purple shades. To produce one pound of cochineal powder, it took 70,000 dried insects. An acre planted with nopal cacti yielded 100 to 150 kg of cochineal powder.

Up up up to the weavers

After visiting the school Remigio (the weaver) and I hiked up to his mother's house where I would be spending the next week learning about traditional weaving techniques. We started hiking up the tight valley from about 12,400 feet, where the school is located. I started off feeling great, not much pain in the foot and lungs were feeling like they could get plenty of O2. As we approached 13,500 feet I could start to feel the altitude and my steps became smaller and less energetic, my pack heavier. Trying to keep up with Felipe (Remigio's nephew who I followed) proved to be challenging and humbling experience at 14,000 feet. Felipe's feet moved across the terrain like a mountain goat and he did not seem to be breathing. Remigio passed along a handful of coca leaves and told me to put them in my mouth, it would, he said, "make me feel better and alleviate all troubled thoughts." The coca leaves tasted rather earthy but wiped out my headache instantly. I think I could get into chewing these on a daily basis. At 14,700 feet we approached some rock homes with smoke bellowing out the cracks and thatched roof, this is where I would be spending the next 7 days.

Once we stopped moving my body experienced a deep chill, I quickly dug through my pack to find my down jacket. We sat outside the house on the dirt and ate roasted potatoes from a dirty bowl. There are over one hundred varieties of potatoes in Peru. The wind picked up and it soon began to snow. We took it inside, Remigio showed me where I would be sleeping which was in a different house from his mother's where all the cooking happened. It was cold and dark inside and he reached for alpaca and sheep skins to place on the rock ledge or bed. He pulled out a candle, I could see more of my room, although I wish I hadn't. There was mouse poop in every crack and along the walls and the blankets he generously gave me smelled like old dirty feet. I got my stuff situated and went to join everyone in the main house. The houses are about 300 to 400 square feet and usually one family lives in one rock home. The main house was built by Remigio's great-great-great grandfather. The family left during Spanish occupation and returned to the house along with other people in the valley (there are about 10 families that live in the entire valley) to live in a community cooperative where all the families own the land and watch out for each other. Inside the house only Quechua is spoken and Remigio translates what is said into Spanish for me.

I have been putting some interesting things in my stomach. First the day started off with some Chicha made from fermented cebada or barley. This chicha had a much sweeter taste than that from the Urumbamba Chicha. Next on the day's menu was about 10 different types of roasted potatoes, coca leaves, mate de coca (coca tea), and cuy (guinea pig). And I think that's about all my stomach could handle for the day.

Night arrives quickly down here, by 5pm it is getting dark and much colder. Inside the main house food and tea are being prepared and the air is thick with smoke. The smoke burns my eyes, but I must sacrifice my eyes for warmth. I hear a chirping sound coming from under the beds, and see a small rodent dart out into the open area. I see another furry rat like figure frantically dash out and run back under the bed. These are the guinea pigs which live in their homes and are eaten occasionally. Remigio's family has about 8 guinea pigs living with them and they are their main source of protein. After dinner I walked outside to the hole in the ground to relieve myself and brush my teeth under the stars. Looking up at the sky made me realize that I am far away. The constellations are unrecognizable and foreign, but the Milky Way seems so close, I almost feel like I am viewing the stars through a telescope. There is no moon visible tonight allowing me to see millions of stars and galaxies. I stare at the southern cross knowing that I won't see it again unless I venture back down here across the equator. I wait until I see a shooting star, make a wish and go to bed.

School Visit

A full day of travel to get to the trailhead which leads to the weaver family in Mucmoca. At the base of the trailhead is a school where I spent a few hours visiting. The closest town to the school is Pitumarca, not many cars found here, so it took me awhile to arrange a ride from Pitumarca to the school.

The kids here walk or ride their bikes to school. Some kids have a 2 hour walk back home from school everyday climbing 2,000 feet. All kids where the same simple sandals and their feet look much older and worn than the rest of their bodies. Quechua is the students' first language and they have Spanish or Castillian classes as well. The school of Labraco houses preschool to the US equivalent of 6th grade. About 75 students attend this school from March to December.

I gave each class a disposable camera with instructions to take pictures of their homes, landscape, people, etc. My plan is to collect the cameras after my week with the weavers and mail the photos back to them in addition to displaying their photos at my school. In return I will have students at my school in the US take photos which we will mail to the kids of the Labraco school. I also asked the students to draw/paint a picture depicting their daily life with the idea of doing an art exchange with my students in the US. The students were excited to receive the art materials which I donated to the school.

got salt?

Took a moto taxi down the valley from Urubamba to hike up to the salt pans of Salinas. About an hour hike uphill, wishing I had my mountain bike to avoid walking on my broken foot and for downhill entertainment. The salt pans here have been used for salt extraction since the Inca times. A hot spring from the top of the valley releases a small stream of heavily salt-laden water, which is diverted into salt pans and evaporated to produce salt.

Karaoke with Guinea Pig & Microbrew

My last night in Urumbamba involved eating the fine Peruvian delicacy of "Cuy" aka Guinea Pig. Cuy was once eaten by Inca royalty. Today it is eaten for important occassions in the Andes and Shamans are known to inspect the entrails in efforts to diagnose disease in humans. Prior to dinner I went for a glass of Urumbamba's homebrew or "chicha" which is a mild corn beer dating back to pre-Columbian times. Chicha is brewed in huge urns in highland villges and sold in LARGE glasses. The fermentation process begins with chewing the corn. It tastes sour and is considered by some to be hygienically questionable (suppose that depends on if the person chewing the corn has any communicable disease). The evening was topped off singing Beatles songs on the Karoke machine at a local bar.

Lima to Cusco to Sacsayhuaman

Staying in Cusco for a couple of days before heading out to do a ceramics workshop. Hiked up to Sacsayhuaman from Cusco with Edwin, his kids, and the family dog Whiskey. The name Sacsayhuaman is Quechua which means 'satisfied falcon.' Quechua is the indigenous language of the highlands. The site is an immense Inca ruin that has religious and military significance. Only 20% of the original structure remains, it was torn down by the Spaniards who pilfered rocks from the site to build their own homes and cathedrals. Inca stonemasonry is incredible, famous for the "Inca fit" cut rocks are placed so snug that nothing can be slipped into the joins between stones that often weigh many tons. Some of the stones weigh over 300 tonnes.

Ceramics in Urumbamba

Took a public bus from Cusco @ 11,000' to Urumbamba @ 9,500' where I am studying with Henry Morales Baca, a local ceramic artist. Spent the morning working on the wheel, which was a bit challenging. The afternoon I spent paging through Henry's books on Inca iconography. Henry comes from a long lineage of ceramicist, and still uses traditional techniques. He travels to the Urumbamba river valley to collect his clay, which is taken back to the studio and mixed with sand and water. A wood fired kiln is used to fire his pieces and the glazes, Henry makes himself using insects, plants and fruits.

United States to Peru

I received a grant from the Fund for Teachers to travel to Peru to study the Andean textiles and ceramics. I created my own intinerary and spend part of my summer living in the Andes with local families learning about their culture. It was an amazing experience which I will be sharing with my students upon my return to the United States.

Fund for Teachers is a foundation whose mission is to enrich the professional lives of school teachers by providing recognition and opportunities for renewal thereby improving their classroom practice and benefiting their students on a daily basis.

Fund for Teachers meets the need of "individualized" learning for teachers by supporting professional development of their own design. The Fund provides fellowship grants directly to teachers, with more than three years of experience, to support their professional learning during the summer. Their experiences come in many forms, but share the purpose of better teaching. Ultimately, the Fund believes that by experiencing the potential of their personal and professional learning, teachers in turn inspire potential in their students.

Fund for Teachers grants are awarded to teachers who work with students in grades Pre K – 12. To be selected, interested teachers must submit a proposal that details how their summer fellowship will make them a better teacher and how their improved skills or capacity will be implemented in the classroom, benefiting students, curricula and school. FFT Fellows are required to document their experience and provide a reflective report and evidence of how they will use the experience to inform their classroom practice. Teachers are accepted based on the quality and merit of their application as judged by a committee.

Nikita

Nikita disappeared Sunday evening on Sunshine Canyon. 30 minutes had passed before I heard her bark a few times (nothing out of the ordinary) until I went out to feed her some leftover dinner scraps. She was nowhere within calling distance, one hour went by, 2, the sun came up and still no sign of the "naughty" Nikita. My guess is that a mountian lion nabbed her and she became part of the food chain. It's still hard to believe and more difficult not knowing what exactly happened to her.

NIkita lived a very exciting and adventurous 12 years. She skied numerous peaks (including the steep & cruxy, therefore aptly named Dead Dog Couloir, off of Torreys), she came along on some great fishing trips, amazing trail runs, and way back in the day epic long mountain bike rides. Well, I can only hope that she is now peacefully resting her tired old bones out in the forest, where she belongs....forever.

Broken Foot

I broke my foot on june 15 delaying my trip to South America.

How did Jessica break her foot:
a.) climbing a tree to save her neighbors cat and fell.
b.) learning to skateboard in the boulder skate park.
c.) getting out of bed to answer the phone.
d.) descending catus ridge on her mountain bike.

Beware of Dog & Owner

Bit in the quad while riding, by a mean vicious dog at the finish of the red shack ride into 4 mile canyon. The dog owner has the same disposition as his furry companion.