After visiting the school Remigio (the weaver) and I hiked up to his mother's house where I would be spending the next week learning about traditional weaving techniques. We started hiking up the tight valley from about 12,400 feet, where the school is located. I started off feeling great, not much pain in the foot and lungs were feeling like they could get plenty of O2. As we approached 13,500 feet I could start to feel the altitude and my steps became smaller and less energetic, my pack heavier. Trying to keep up with Felipe (Remigio's nephew who I followed) proved to be challenging and humbling experience at 14,000 feet. Felipe's feet moved across the terrain like a mountain goat and he did not seem to be breathing. Remigio passed along a handful of coca leaves and told me to put them in my mouth, it would, he said, "make me feel better and alleviate all troubled thoughts." The coca leaves tasted rather earthy but wiped out my headache instantly. I think I could get into chewing these on a daily basis. At 14,700 feet we approached some rock homes with smoke bellowing out the cracks and thatched roof, this is where I would be spending the next 7 days.
Once we stopped moving my body experienced a deep chill, I quickly dug through my pack to find my down jacket. We sat outside the house on the dirt and ate roasted potatoes from a dirty bowl. There are over one hundred varieties of potatoes in Peru. The wind picked up and it soon began to snow. We took it inside, Remigio showed me where I would be sleeping which was in a different house from his mother's where all the cooking happened. It was cold and dark inside and he reached for alpaca and sheep skins to place on the rock ledge or bed. He pulled out a candle, I could see more of my room, although I wish I hadn't. There was mouse poop in every crack and along the walls and the blankets he generously gave me smelled like old dirty feet. I got my stuff situated and went to join everyone in the main house. The houses are about 300 to 400 square feet and usually one family lives in one rock home. The main house was built by Remigio's great-great-great grandfather. The family left during Spanish occupation and returned to the house along with other people in the valley (there are about 10 families that live in the entire valley) to live in a community cooperative where all the families own the land and watch out for each other. Inside the house only Quechua is spoken and Remigio translates what is said into Spanish for me.
I have been putting some interesting things in my stomach. First the day started off with some Chicha made from fermented cebada or barley. This chicha had a much sweeter taste than that from the Urumbamba Chicha. Next on the day's menu was about 10 different types of roasted potatoes, coca leaves, mate de coca (coca tea), and cuy (guinea pig). And I think that's about all my stomach could handle for the day.
Night arrives quickly down here, by 5pm it is getting dark and much colder. Inside the main house food and tea are being prepared and the air is thick with smoke. The smoke burns my eyes, but I must sacrifice my eyes for warmth. I hear a chirping sound coming from under the beds, and see a small rodent dart out into the open area. I see another furry rat like figure frantically dash out and run back under the bed. These are the guinea pigs which live in their homes and are eaten occasionally. Remigio's family has about 8 guinea pigs living with them and they are their main source of protein. After dinner I walked outside to the hole in the ground to relieve myself and brush my teeth under the stars. Looking up at the sky made me realize that I am far away. The constellations are unrecognizable and foreign, but the Milky Way seems so close, I almost feel like I am viewing the stars through a telescope. There is no moon visible tonight allowing me to see millions of stars and galaxies. I stare at the southern cross knowing that I won't see it again unless I venture back down here across the equator. I wait until I see a shooting star, make a wish and go to bed.
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